The Fashion of Fleabag
Graphic by Margeaux Rocco. Image via Firstpost.
If you have not yet watched Phoebe Waller-Bridge’s wry, side-splitting, heart-wrenching tragicomedy Fleabag, I mourn your unfamiliarity with this absolute triumph. Only two seasons long, with Waller-Bridge herself confirming that there will not be a third, the show is currently available for streaming through Amazon Prime.
Waller-Bridge, in addition to writing and creating the show, stars as the title character Fleabag, a young woman full of biting wisecracks, self-deprecating humor and hypersexual tendencies.
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Upon rewatching the show for the nth time, I was struck by how impressive the subtlety of Fleabag’s styling was. Although she dresses quite simply, her unique style shines through in each piece she wears. In an interview with A Cup of Joe, costume designer Ray Holman describes his favorite outfit to design for Fleabag — “A pair of wide-cut jeans, with white Superga canvas shoes and a stripey top and her coat. I like the simplicity of it. When you saw that silhouette, you knew it was her.” Unlike flashy superhero costumes or intricately detailed period piece ensembles, the normality of Fleabag’s wardrobe may seem unextraordinary. However, crafting a cohesive, understated style requires a thorough understanding of the character’s personality.
Fleabag’s look is very French, from her dark bob and bold red lip to her striped tops and buckled trench coat. Holman explains the inspiration, “There’s the idea that the French are quite chic, and actually Fleabag is quite chic in her own way.”
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Holman also explained how all of the clothing from the show was sourced from everyday stores such as Muji, Zara and Benetton. He noted, “Fleabag is an urban woman who runs a café; she’s not a woman who runs around the city in designer clothes.” As a result, many of the pieces which Fleabag rocks can be purchased by fans of the show. A black jumpsuit — worn by Waller-Bridge in the first episode of the second season — sold out shortly after the episode premiered.
When he was asked about Fleabag’s lack of “sexy” clothing, despite sex being a huge part of the show’s plot, he responded, “It felt inappropriate to do that. Sexuality is fluid these days; it’s all about what’s going on in your head. You don’t have to dress a certain way. [Fleabag] dresses for practicality and for a bit of style as well.” Although Fleabag is, in her own definition, obsessed with sex, she doesn’t perform sexuality through her clothing in a way that we expect. The show breaks from overused stereotypes, portraying a more awkward, practical version of modern female sexuality.
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Interestingly, there are several moments throughout the show where clothing affects and intersects with the plot. In the very first episode of the show, we are introduced to Fleabag’s successful older sister, Claire, when the two women attend a feminist lecture together. Fleabag starts to take off her coat and realizes that the sweater she’s wearing is her sister’s, who believes she lost the sweater several years ago. After the lecture, Claire demands it back, and refuses Fleabag’s request to grab a drink together. In this moment, this sweater actively participates in the narrative, helping to lay the groundwork for the sisters’ relationship and the juxtaposition between the two sisters’ characters.
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Even when Fleabag’s clothing is not directly linked to the plot of the episode, it often reflects her emotional reaction to the situations around her. The black jumpsuit mentioned earlier is a particularly bold outfit choice for Fleabag. Holman explains the process of choosing the look, stating, “I remember the moment I saw the jumpsuit. We were in the fitting, and I said, ‘Look, I’m going to show you this, just put it on.’ [Waller-Bridge] put the jumpsuit on and went, ‘Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, this is Episode 1.’ It looked amazing on her. It was making a statement, because at that point in our story she hadn’t seen her family for a year.” After a chaotic first season (no spoilers), Fleabag shows up in the open-front black jumpsuit, and it is clear that she has decided to meet her family with her head held high, confident and defiant.
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Fleabag is an amazing show based off of the writing, acting and cinematography alone, but the attention to detail of the costume design adds another layer. Additionally, although I focused on Fleabag herself, many of the supporting characters have wonderfully personalized wardrobes, including Fleabag’s eccentric mother-in-law, played by Olivia Coleman.
Holman concludes that “Fleabag is an ordinary woman. She is an ordinary, stylish woman.” While I agree with her stylishness, I can’t agree that Fleabag is ordinary. She, like the show itself, is spunky, sarcastic, a bit deprived and so, so wonderful.